Clean it down good, i like to take some fine steel wool and shine it up and then apply a little grease to it as well. Make sure the shaft is clean before pushing it into the new seal or you will score it and ruin it. If thats leaking oil at all get a new copper sealing washer from an local auto parts store to fix that. The rest of the assembly is just the reverse, don't overtighten that 10mm bolt, just spin it down finger tight, then snug it up with a wrench, i mean lightly snug. Grease the seal up on the inside lip that the shaft runs on, a little assembly lube or light grease is fine, this will prevent damage while putting the shaft back in but also to keep it lubricated for use. Get a new seal, pull the old seal, push the new seal in as much as you can by hand then tap it the rest of the way with a rubber mallet or a wooden dowel and small, don't go pounding on it, just a few light taps to seat it all the way. Once the cable is removed look on the top of the head where the lever return spring is, there is a single 10mm bolt with a metal sealing washer on it, remove that 10mm bolt then pull the decompression lever shaft right out of the rocker cover. If you run it hard you can hole the piston.Remove the cable from the lever, i usually just loosen the cable holder and pull the cable out of that then pull the lever up by hand to get slack in the cable and then turn the end and remove it from the lever. If you run a very oily mixture it can make the engine run hot - it is similar to using fuel with too low an octane rating and the engine does not like it. You might as well get them to check the connecting rod for big and little end play. While you are at it ask them to inspect the cam and the rockers. Get some new guides (and valves if they say they're worn) and get the machine shop to fit the guides. Then buy the size they tell you and get them to bore it.Īsk the machine shop to measure and inspect your valve stems. When you decide to get a new piston take the jug to a proper machine shop you can trust and get it measured or you may buy the wrong piston. If you don't you will end up re-using worn out parts and all your effort will be for nothing.
This stuff can be done by a novice but you need someone to help you with inspection and the machining jobs. I wouldn't try swapping just the piston - cylinder and piston as a set is okay. If you can see the play the guides and probably valves are worn. When you pull the head take off the valve springs and pull the valves out a few millimetres and wiggle them to see how much play there is. We have quality products for your 1982 Honda ATC185S from brands you trust at prices that will fit your budget.
Honda ATC185S 1982, Piston Kit by Wiseco®. If your project is incomplete without Powersports Pistons, Rings, Connecting Rods & Components, look no further. My guess is you will pull the cylinder off and the bore and piston will be scuffed badly. ATV Parts Engine Parts Pistons, Rings & Connecting Rods Honda ATC185S 1982 1982 Honda ATC185S Pistons, Rings, Connecting Rods & Components. If it turns out one has a good bottom end / piston and the other has a good head, valves and cam then you may be able to make a good motor out of the bits. You might be able to swap bits from one engine to another but it does sound like both engines have issues.
If it's burning oil it is going past the piston rings or down the valve guides - probably both. When i bought it it didnt smoke, and i got it home, changed and flushed old oil out, and the next time i got on it it started smoking and burnt up all the oil in about 4 hours and got so hot the dip stick started to melt! still runs after getting so hot so i dont think the heat messed anything up.
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